Unlike fashion whose only rule says that “there are no rules”, the men’s style is guided by a series of rules based on a clothing discipline and a look as neat and well rounded as possible.
In this respect we should know and master the following 10 essential rules:
1. All the one-breasted jackets will be worn with the last button undone, while the double-breasted ones will have all the buttons done. (with the exception of “sprezzatura” situations where the last button will be undone, namely we beak the rule “effortlessly” as a sign of personal touch or expressing oneself). The three breasted jacket will always have done the middle button and optionally the upper one if you feel comfortable.
2. The same rule of keeping the last button undone will be applied to the one-breasted waistcoat but not to the double breasted one. The “sprezzatura” is also valid in this case and for a stronger statement the upper button can also be left undone.
3. All the visible labels should be immediately removed.
4. Before wearing a suit remove all the threads that may come out of the stitching. Most of the Jackets come with sewn pockets. The best solution for making the pockets usable is by using a small blade to cut the threads and remove them, leaving the pocket open to use without damaging the material.
5. Buy a quality clothing brush to help you care for your suits and jackets.
6. The modern day standards imply wearing a two or even three buttons jacket on almost any situation or event, with the exception of special occasions where a tuxedo is needed (with just one button).
7. Black shoes must always be worn with a black belt. In case of brown shoes, we can play with the colours and textures. Depending on the season, we can choose a brown colour for the belt or even a coloured belt made of linen.
8. Never wear a belt and braces at the same time. If you choose the braces, it’s best to choose the ones with buttons. Also, the trousers which have built in buckles for adjusting the size will not be worn with braces or a belt.
9. A very important detail is the balance between the length of the jacket’s sleeve and the shirt’s sleeve. For a neat and proper look it is recommended that 0.7-1 inch (2 or 3 cm) of the shirt’s cuff should be visible. At the same time, the same value can be applied for the visibility of the shirt collar at the back side.
10. At the shoulders, the jacket should always be a little bit wider than your shoulder size. When you buy a ready to wear jacket you have to make sure that the shoulder and the sleeves do not have any folds. This is a feature that only the experienced tailors can properly master.